Router Table

I use a Kreg precision table for all my builds. Since I do not use CNC and only build by hand, a router table is the primary build tool. There are many brands and types out there including less expensive starter tables, like Bosch, that have smaller work surfaces.

Router Lift

Having a manual lift makes life so much easier if you plan to make many guns. It allows the user to adjust the height of the router bit from above without having to get under the table and unclamp the router to manually move it each cut. I have had good results with JessEm.

router

The router probably doesn’t matter too much, but i would get a name brand that you trust. I happen to use Porter cable 690. The router lift/mount needs to be compatible with the router. I also use a speed controller on the router for very large cutting bits that require lower speeds. I’ve included a link to one below.

A good bit height gauge is a must have for router table work. Wixley makes a great, simple and cheap gauge with digital readout. Here is a link to the gauge, well worth the $25 bucks!

Router bits

I have built up quite a collection of bits over the years. While you can build a simple gun with very few bits, the more you have the more you can do in terms of shaping or features. Most routers comes with 1/4” and 1/2” collets so you can buy either type of bit shank size. Typically smaller bits will have 1/4” shanks and larger bit 1/2” shanks, makes sense. There are many brands of varying quality available on the market. If you don’t care about long term use, go cheaper. I use mostly Freud, sometimes the carbide Rockler bits and they have performed well. For very very large bits I only use high end so I know they are well balanced and hopefully safe to run at speed.

planer

A planer is not absolutely necessary for hobby or casual builds if you have a decent table saw and blade. I do like using a planer to clean up and make flat laminating strips for my blanks. It’s also very useful for fishing the blanks and ensuring uniform thickness along the length of the blank. It’s very useful in cleaning up poured tracks too. I use an old Dewalt planer but the newer ones like shown below have two speeds which might be useful. Since spearguns, blanks and laminate strips are all pretty small, a simple 12” planer is much more than you actually need.

Table saw

An absolute must have for Speargun building. I use an old craftsman table saw for breaking down teak lumber, cutting and cleaning blanks and making tapers on guns. Since I’m mostly cutting long items (50-70”) I prefer a large work area typical with the professional tables as opposed to the small contractors type saws. A large table saw of good quality is very expensive though, so a contractors size, like below, would probably make sense for beginners.

My favorite blades are the Diablo 60T (tooth). I’ve used the 84T also which are very smooth and clean cutting but cost more. If you are not using a planer or jointer after table cuts then the 84T might be worth the extra money to reduce sanding work. The 60 does everything for me whether its cutting strips, gun tapers or blank straightening.

Drill press

Here’s another necessity in the spear gun builders shop. I guess you could use a hand drill for some things but installing a trigger mech pin requires accuracy and I use a drill press that has a squared up table. I use to use a Harbor freight press but eventually got tired of having to ensure my drill holes were square by shimming etc. Now I have a Jet drill press and I have had great results. The table is true and rigid.